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FOOD MATTERS: Never say pap

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How do I know that this was a good year for Obudu Delight? Because this year, I gained a new food obsession; homemade Guinea corn gruel also known as Oka Baba or very commonly and plainly called Ogi, served with unrestrained lashings of Obudu delight. Ogi is never ever referred to at our house as "pap" because frankly, the word sounds disgusting.

There is just nothing about "pap" that makes me want to put the owner of the name anywhere near my mouth. Not only does it bring to mind the up and down motion of toothless gums, it also gives ones brain no choice but to make such associations as Pap smear! Obudu Delight by the way, is the name of the honey produced in deep cloud layers in Obudu cattle ranch and packaged in glass jars and rustic cardboard crates. Even if I don't put a spoon of Obudu delight in my mouth for a year, it is somehow enough to walk into my kitchen in the morning and see the glass jars and crate on my counter.

My Ogi is not only served with Obudu honey, but also a generous sprinkling of some strange milk substitute called Darifree. Darifree is only probably familiar to the lactose intolerant. And I call it strange because it is almost like an illusion...this free, that free...It is allegedly free of everything bad for the sensitive constitution yet tastes quite good.

It is tough to find anyone in my generation who knows how to make Ogi at home. There was a time in the past when it was near impossible to find a teenage girl who did not know how to make it. Thankfully, knowing how to make Ogi is no longer a prerequisite for being a well brought up young lady.

Why must it be homemade? Because the difference between homemade Ogi and market bought is as they say the difference between chalk and cheese. I had to return to my mother's Ogi to fully appreciate this distinction.

For many years, because all that was available to me were carelessly produced market versions, I had formed the distinct opinion that Ogi must smell like dirty old socks which it does when it has been fermenting in the market's open air for days on end.

That's not the end of the story: What would you do if you were a market woman whose batch of Ogi was unsold after many days? The answer is prudentially commonsensical - add it to the new batch of Ogi. What if you can't find clean water, which is absolutely indispensable for making good Ogi?

The answer - who can find clean water in Lagos?! With hindsight, I would not buy Ogi from the market. Traditionally, a woman had to know how to make Oka Baba Ogi not because it was the best way to make her the household drudge, but because it would be the first weaning food given to her child. It would not be bought in a market where its production had all kinds of question marks.

It isn't convenient to make Ogi.

First there is the trip to the market to buy the brown pellet like grains of guinea corn. At home, the grains are picked clean and soaked in water for three days to swell and open them, then it's back out again to those aggressively hoarse public mills to be ground to thick sludge.

The sludge is brought home and passed through a sieve with plenty of water until one gets a smooth thick custardy consistency at one end and chaff at the other (hard, hard, work!) The custard is the end product, and in order to prevent the horrible dirty socks smell, it is stored with a layer of clean water on its face in the refrigerator (thank God for refrigerators).

Here is where I like to come in - when all the hard work has been done - I love everything about cooking and eating Oka Baba. The consistency and colour of the custard when it comes out of the fridge brings to mind coffee ice cream. I add more water, to about three tablespoons of the custard, until it is again like water.

Place it on the hob and stir continually (therapeutically) until it is thick - yet again-(I love all the contradictions!)...until it bubbles gently at the edges.

Obudu delight comes off the counter, and when I say unrestrained lashings, I mean unrestrained lashings. Then I add Darifree (which by the way is in no way elitist as it can be freely purchased at Okoli supermarket in Dolphin Estate!) This meal is better than breakfast; it is warm delicious guilt-free pudding. There is no law to the eating consistency. My mother likes hers frumpy. I like mine an elegant pouring consistency, yet thick enough to coat a spoon...thickly!

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Reader Comments (15)


Posted by Dayo B on Nov 19 2009

Wow! I think you have single-handedly changed my view of Ogi. Never liked the stuff..maybe because it was called pap. Now, i'm looking forward to getting some goold ol' homemade ogi. Thanks!

Posted by Opinionated on Nov 19 2009

Very well said....

Posted by jide on Nov 19 2009

Never really cared for ogi or its relative eko. Love kanjika though, a very rare, hard to come by variant of eko. (great dessert) Always felt ogi (and eko) were foods that are very ripe for evolutionary experimentation. Why has this not happened yet?

Posted by Francis on Nov 19 2009

How did you pull it off? I mean making Ogi sound like the world's number one cuisine

Posted by Ayodele Enitan Alabi on Nov 19 2009

You've totally got my number when it comes to food, but my favorite is the corn 'ogi' and yes, pap reminds me of a toothless old woman. Homemade, used to be able to do that, fortunately I have a mother whose friends still make her pap and once in a while remember to send her some. I've also been able to find one 'customer' whose Ogi is always fresh because she's an 'Afinju ologi' :) and she supplies supermarkets... Think ogi, a light sprinkling of sugar and freshly fried 'akara' and you've got me salivating...

Posted by yemisi ogbe on Nov 19 2009

Youve got my attention...Whats an Afinju ologi?!

Posted by Madam on Nov 19 2009

I don't think Ogi is even readily available in any market these days. I've been searching for months and so far nothing. I have to settle for bland custard. Please advise on which markets or supermarkets to find it in Lagos for those of us who don't have the luxury of time or the skills to make ours at home.

Posted by Computta on Nov 19 2009

Lemme concede here, I never liked custard; I wud prefer 'ogi bàbà' any day! I would take it wif good 'lashings' of Peak milk and some Suya. Yummy! Again, I'd concede dat Yemisi always sweeps me off ma feet( it's not dat easy 4 any writer 2 do dat)! Each time I peruse her pieces, I get lifted, ma appetite whetted simultaneously. Yemisi, are u on FB?

Posted by Tunji on Nov 20 2009

I agree with you 100%, my saturday mornings cannot be complete without my ogi with delicious servings of akara.. heavenly delight!!

Posted by Kpek on Nov 22 2009

And my wife thinks I'm just a 'bush' Oyo man because I like my Ogi 'n Akara ... ... Yemisi ... go on soun :-)

Posted by Babs Dodo on Nov 22 2009

Great! Yemisi we only get powdered ogi here and it is not comparable to home made or market supplied ogi that you have in Nigeria. I don't use to like custard but since I started drinking the type of ogi we have here, my tongue taste had been adjusted. It seems they have the same type of flavour. To buy custard nko? The first store I went to could not understand why a man wants custard. They told me that it is a woman's drink. Is that not funny? I then look at the tin, 'a delicious British tradition' is written on it. Well, we are British...are we not? Would Ayodele Enitan send me some akara please? I am salivating too!

Posted by Bee on Nov 23 2009

Never loved custard, but I've had to make do with it as well, everyone used to think I was bush cos guess was the only one of my mothers' children who truly appreciated 'ogi'....lol, maybe that's why she still loves me best.....

Posted by John on Nov 23 2009

You mean Akam! It is easier to sieve if you make a four cornered contraption and place a deep basin at the bottom. Place the net over the top, put a portion of the corn and sieve with water until only corn chaff is left in the net (sieve). Not that difficult. Smells brilliant especially when the corn is new!

Posted by PJ on Nov 27 2009

Yemisi, what a talent you are! I love food and everything called by the name of food. I have to say mainly Nigerian food. I have a passion for Nigerian food! You should start doing restaurant review. I always look forward to reading your column every time I'm on this site. I also read food/restaurant reviews on our dailies here. I don't think the people write better than you do. I would love to see you when next you're on this side of the ocean. You should come and review my restaurant! Look forward to seeing you someday!

Posted by uli on Dec 03 2009

John,how so very correct. guess my love for Akamu/Ogi/Koko stems from the fact that while growing up;i was saddled with preparing Akamu from scratch and i actually took delight in the process. i had to monitor it for those 3 days, making sure the water drains off it and it has become hard, after sieving, make sure i change the water daily - we had no fridge because in the extreme north our weather served as a fridge thanks to REB and their stinting of Light [no NEPA there, then]- to prevent any smell and till date I could drink koko morning, afternoon and night! Infact, the day Buhari was ousted from power, i had gone to 'kiri' ogi on the streets of Lagos before the news filtered out. My mother used to make ogi and i took up the skill from her before i went to the north. then in the boarding school, koko made with gyero [millet] was a delight!



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