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Apongbon and re-branding the Marina

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A British Consul called McCrosky, aka Apongbon, created the Marina at Lagos in 1859 as a public space and traffic thoroughfare, eventually it would boast of a tramway along with electric lights.

I can remember in 1959, taking the children for a walk along it, feeling the strong southwesterly breeze on my face while listening to the palm fronds crackling and the lagoon waves lapping the shore.

In the 1970s the land was reclaimed and the waterfront moved further out to make way for the expressways and a massive car park from where you could comfortably walk into the centre of the Island leaving your car behind. This is just what our crowded little island needed to “pedestrianise” its growing commercial area.

But almost immediately, some of the spaces were taken over by some of the larger office blocks, no doubt at a price, to make good the car parking provision which should have been, by law, accommodated on their sites. I can remember that the Union Bank was supposed to have several basements for parking but the then the MD lost faith in his architect, Laiye Balogun, and took over the public parking space opposite his massive office. Including that needed for Glover Hall.

Later, structures started to ease out the cars, first a few petrol stations then a soft drinks depot, while government found it a convenient place to dump broken down vehicles, empty containers and sundry other discarded items. Steadily over time what was a fine public parking space was turned into a filthy dust hole.

Then our excellent and zealous governor got to work with some landscape contractors and started to build a linear park with footpaths, palm trees and grassed areas, was this indeed, at last, ‘the Venice of West Africa’ about which I wrote in the 1950s? Here was a substitute for the ‘Love Garden’ taken over by Muson and the Onikan football ground. An open space for local residents to enjoy together with those others who could find a car park! Really?

Well... yes and NO! But tell me, how do you get to it and the toilets built there? Unfortunately to reach it across the expressway is impossible, because of the nose to tail traffic all day and the only footbridge is at the ferry station. So it is becoming a decorative no-man’s land.

As if this wasn’t a problem, near the ferry station the scheme appears to have run out of steam or money. The area reserved for bus parking and lifting passengers is already looking abandoned with building materials lying around and ironically, it is as untidy as the Oshodi interchange of yesterday. But worse is to be seen as you walk to where the overhead roadway turns to drop into Apongbon Street.

Opposite, right on the waterfront is a ship-breaking yard that seems to have escaped the hawk eyes of Minister Dora, not to speak of our excellent Governor. Even one large vessel has turned turtle near to the ugly dry dock, which has been an eyesore there for some years now.

No doubt either the Ports Authority or the Inland Waterways Department will claim responsibility for this outrage.

Just as ‘Apongbon’ was instrumental in branding Lagos 150 years ago, so we today must not forget that the process starts with small things. Lagos, and the Lagosians that own it, are very much the showcase of Nigeria. No organisation should stand in the way of whatever efforts are made to clean it up. It is to be hoped that His Excellency will act today to open negotiations with the powers that be to successfully complete his Marina initiative.

Prof. John Godwin is Baakole of Owu Abeokuta

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Reader Comments (8)


Posted by CountryMan on Feb 05 2010

part of the lands you are angling for are known as "crown lands" which has devolved to the federal government...i do not think these portions formed part of the handover of fgn lands...chief, the only person who can help is in saudi...the last time the onikoyis approached him, he advised them to go to court...

Posted by Omo Alhaja on Feb 05 2010

Prof, the powers that be...will never agree. Which is why those that love their children, and can afford to, should pack up, sell as much as possible, and leave quietly for saner climes. I did so in 2000 and apart from asking Madam to marry me it's the best decision I will ever take.

Posted by joe doe on Feb 05 2010

Prof, I fill your PAIN,without saying much,one thing you should know or remember or take a look around you would notice that most people in lagos NOW are not from LAGOS originally,the lagos you eloquently described is foreign to them,lagos as is now, is like the first time you visit the US even Fashola thats there now,is still rough around the edges,Dora am SORRY is one of the reasons nigeria is what it is today,SHE aitn't the BEST we could offer,I hope Prof that people like continue to remind all who has now made lagos there own how GREAT it was before and how GREAT it could rise again like the PHOENIX.

Posted by joe doe on Feb 05 2010

Prof, I fill your PAIN,without saying much,one thing you should know or remember or take a look around you would notice that most people in lagos NOW are not from LAGOS originally,the lagos you eloquently described is foreign to them,lagos as is now, is like the first time you visit the US even Fashola thats there now,is still rough around the edges,Dora am SORRY is one of the reasons nigeria is what it is today,SHE aitn't the BEST we could offer,I hope Prof that people like you continue to remind all who has now made lagos there own how GREAT it was before and how GREAT it could rise again like the PHOENIX.

Posted by Al Hakiu on Feb 05 2010

Thanks for this info. Never heard of McCrosky. Had always thought Glover was the 'Apongbon' (Pale/Yellow Beard in Yoruba) when he was Governor of Lagos circa 1930s(40s?). That part of Lagos actually belongs to the Federal Govt and that may be what is stalling the completion of the interchange. The man to take that decision is in Saudi Arabia.

Posted by Ayoka on Feb 05 2010

My Uncle showed me pictures of Apongbon (including Olowogbowo) up to CMS, as late as the 1950s, believe me it was a far cry from what we have today. It's enough to make you shed tears for Nigeris's dilapidation. We all need an attitude change in this country, especially with regard to the environment and infrastructure.

Posted by Kpek on Feb 06 2010

@ Countryman/Omo Alhaja - there actually is another way of 'obtaining' the 'return of those parcels of land - through the same 'Courts' that UMYA referred us to - the basis would be that the land was acquired for 'Public purposes' which has now 'passed' - LASG/the Onikoyis et al have commenced this process in different guises and it may just end up being the only way to achieve this - an 'activist' Supreme Court has already indicated their willingness to use the law/judgments as instruments of 'social engineering' - I actually favour this way - it is a war of attrition but ultimately I prefer it to 'begging' all these unconscionable people (no be so Bode George say we no fit demolish the BOI building) ... Aluta continua ... @ Omo Alhaja - bros - all respect - but some of us no wan leave this Country now (& we want to 'bring up' our children here). The view out of my office window overlooks the Marina and all my visitors exclaim at the sheer serenity of the view ... ... some things are worth 'fightin for & it is very helpful to have 'oral history' of the type Professor Godwin has articulated here to 'refresh' the 'vision' ... ... call me a feckless optimist if you will but I really do believe we will take our Country back ... ... & I 'somehow' believe it will happen in my lifetime ... (wetin - I nefa ol reach dat now - why una dey laugh :-)

Posted by Dayo on Feb 07 2010

@ Kpek, I am with you. Some of us born in "saner climes" have virtually fought our way back here, having realized the inextricable linkage and interdependency between its fate and ours -- and the view of the ocean from one's window doesn't hurt. Ultimately, Nigeria (and Lagos) is the culmination of the actions (by commission or omission) of all Nigerians.



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