Two activities stand out in the build-up to the grand finale of the Osun-Osogbo festival: The city cleansing rites - led by the king - known as Iwopopo; and the lighting of the Atupa Olojumerindinlogun (lantern with 16 ‘eyes'). The latter takes place nine days before the grand finale and lasts through the night.
As a rule, once the lamps start to burn at 6pm, the fire must not go out until 6am the following morning. The receptacles are fed with gallons upon gallons of palm oil. What if the fire goes out? "Ah, that's trouble," a young person exclaims, amidst the din and revelry of the evening.
This occasion is a high point for the locals, who throng the palace of the Atooja (the king) of Osogbo to witness the associated festivities. Sometime before midnight, the Osun priest and priestess emerge from the palace area, leading the votary maid in a leisurely procession to dance around the lantern three times. Shortly afterwards, the king himself, surrounded by his wives and subjects, also makes his way to the lantern.
Akanji Sadik, the Baale Ataoja of Osogbo and custodian of the mythical lantern, sheds some light on it.
What's the significance of the 16-point lamp to the Osun festival?
The lamp has been in existence since time immemorial. It is for the town's appeasement and also for the community's good and growth. Once we light it, there are never quarrels, wars or deception in the land. Also, lighting it signifies the start of the festival proper.
When did the people of Osogbo start to light this lamp?
That's ages ago. As a matter of fact, all of us here are, maybe, the fifth generation that has carried on this tradition... on the same spot it has been held every year and overseen by the Agunwa household, which is the recognised custodian of the lamp itself and the family where I belong. As long as I live, I am the only person who has the right to bring out the lamp yearly from where it is kept.
Where do you keep it?
It stays with Osun. On occasions, we may go and check on it if we feel it is necessary.
When you say the lamp stay with Osun, do you mean at the grove?
No, not the Osun River - I mean Osun's home right there (points in a direction of the palace).
I can see the youth adding palm oil to keep the fire burning. Why not kerosene?
The lamps have always ‘eaten' red oil. And we provide as many litres of it as it may require. (They) could be angry and ‘drink' 10 kegs of oil or it may take as few as four. We always ensure there is more than enough. It is the king (Ataoja) who supplies the oil, which comes straight from the farm.
What characterises the evening of the lighting of the lamp?
We dance, we rejoice. Happiness takes over the arena. No single soul must engage in a fight anywhere near the spot; whoever is caught fighting will be arrested and locked away.
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